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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred establishments. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. The recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent quality.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own walls. “I think many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.